Challenges don’t come much bigger than the Munda Biddi - even reaching the start of the route is quite an undertaking. What follows though is over 1000km of unique off-road adventure through the pristine country of Western Australia. This is reputed to be the longest off-road bike trail in the world.
If it’s isolation you’re after then the Munda Biddi has plenty, tracts of true wilderness punctuated with regular doses of civilisation to keep you sane. The name translates from the Aboriginal language as the ‘way through the forest’ and much of the southern route leads you through the magnificent eucalyptus tingles. And there are parakeets and kangaroos aplenty to keep you entertained. I started at the southern end in Albany, a day’s drive south from Perth, and worth stopping for a day or two if you have the time. Here you can stock up on essentials before hitting the trail. My journey started badly when my rented trailer sheared from the bike frame a mile out of town and I limped back to the start cursing my efforts. Impulse Cycles in town were amazing and cobbled together a new skewer. Within a couple of hours, I was back on the road, a stern warning ringing in my ears to watch out for snakes on the roadside. The West Cape National Park was a delight and the path artfully carved a way through the dunes that lined the coast, interspersed with jaw dropping vistas. After my delayed start, I cycled till dark and camped alongside the Howe River just short of Denmark - next to the only water I could find. Only after making camp did I find the water to be salty as the river was still tidal. I lay awake much of the night with a parched mouth and thumping dehydration headache!
One of the huts that mark every 50km
Beyond Walpole the trail turns north and inland. Munda Biddi’s greatest assets are the sleeping shelters placed about 50km apart. Each shelter has a huge rain water tank, drop toilet and tables for cooking. They can sleep twenty at a push but in the seven shelters I used I was alone every night. I’m not too bothered by some isolation, but the shelters can be a lonely place on your own in a forest with a lot of night sounds to rattle your confidence. Unless you are riding hard and need to keep your pace I might suggest this is a trail best done with some company.
Kangaroo in waiting…
The route is well marked and I only went wrong on a couple of occasions which were corrected soon enough. I cycled in May, definitely well into Autumn, and though the trail was in great condition some of the water tanks were close to empty and I was hit by some quite intense downpours. The going was tougher than I imagined and while the 50km between huts might sound modest, believe me that is an ample day’s effort for a trail that undulates across some pretty rough country. One of the very few cyclists I met en-route was doubling up each leg and doing 100km a day but that’s some undertaking and he was in great shape and carrying very little.
By the time I reached Boyanup I was behind schedule and when I heard the northern section was tough going I cut my losses and headed to Bunbury on the coast. From there I could get a train into Perth easily enough. The scenery was not as varied as I had hoped but this is a trail to become immersed in and would be great with some company. Even the most modest of towns have some great little restaurants and if you are happy to alternate between the shelters and the odd motel a group of you could have a really memorable trip.
A few tips and tricks:
Bikes and trailers can be hired from Perth at About BikeHire who were really helpful. http://aboutbikehire.com.au. I pre-booked mine from the UK.
I rented a car one-way with Budget from Perth as they have an outlet in Albany.
The train from Bunbury is pretty much your own only escape route, unless you have a pick-up arranged. The staff were helpful getting my bike and trailer on the train and then you’re straight into the centre of Perth.
It was straightforward finding food in the smaller towns - supplemented by the odd meal - but you need to carry enough supplies for two or three days. And don’t bother with a tent. I carried a small one and never used it as the shelters were so good. A simple gas stove is fine.
There is a great Munda Biddi trail website and they also sell the 9 maps which cover the entire route. These are essential, especially if you need help or need to adjust your route.
Lastly a word of warning. This is a deceptively remote route and if you’re on your own the stakes are pretty high. You must be equipped to deal with almost anything breaking on the bike and be confident of a repair. If not a very long walk-out beckons and your adventure could quickly become a drama! Similarly with water – I was cautious and always had 3-4 litres on me in case I got stranded. Between shelters and the supply tanks the country can be very dry, especially in the summer months. Please be prepared….